NEW FINAL TZ-CLOCK-BOARD
A NEWLY designed replacement clock board for Twilight Zone.
This single board solves all of the design problems of the original boards and other replacement clock boards.
Other replacement boards also use LEDs instead of the original bulbs, but none of the other factory design flaws, which always cause instability, unreliability and failure of the clock, are corrected, so that it is only a matter of time before these boards, especially the OPTOS, will fail.
What are the advantages of the new board?
- Completely NEW design of the board according to the recognized state of the art.
To deactivate the Power-ON LED, just move the green jumper from W1 to W2.
No longer suffer from weak or intermittent OPTO problems.
This board will solve the weak OPTO-problem FOREVER and ALL TIMES.
On the original boards and other replacement boards the OPTOS directly drive the switch matrix, and this is the greatest reason for the unreliability of the original and other replacement boards.
This design flaw by Williams has been corrected with this board using separate driver logic controlled by the OPTOS. The OPTOS no longer drive the switch matrix directly , there is extra logic implemented. You no longer will have the nasty "clock broken" error.
You can use every "normal" OPTO, as far as the aparture size is suitable.
There is no longer any need to search for the obsolete original OPTO QVE11233.086. We use TCST1103 (=CNY37=H22A1) from VISHAY; the "normal" QVE11233 OPTOS will work as well with our board.
8 indicator LEDs for the OPTOS, so you can see at once if an OPTO has a problem or if the problem is elsewhere.
You can deactivate the indicator LEDs by removing the resistor network out of RA7 and put it into the "park-position".
- The original bulbs (the main reason for the heat in the clock) are replaced with cool burning Super-Flux LEDs. Warm-white Super-Flux LEDs with a wide angle of 130 degrees are used, so that we have exactly the same brightness and colour-temperature as the original bulbs. Very low power consumption, no heat problems any more.
- NEW since board Revision 1.7: ALL the Super-Flux LEDs are socketed.
- Super-Flux LEDs are available in warm-white, cold-white, blue, green, yellow, red and color-changing rainbow Super-Flux LEDs (very nice).
- Fully rectified GI-voltage with a bridge rectifier for absolute flicker-free lightning of the Super-Flux LEDs.
- Fully compatible with GI OCD from ledocd.com
- No weak Molex connectors as used on other replacement-boards.
- The MOLEX-connectors J2 and J3 are soldered onto an extra little PCB and then soldered to the clock-board - a very solid and stable construction, fixed by a special plastic housing.
The minutes-OPTOS (top side) are socketed.
These sockets are - unlike other replecement boards - fixed by a special plastic housing, so that we have a very solid and stable construction. Long-term-tests have shown, that the OPTOS are not moved out of alignment by game vibrations.
The hours-OPTOS (bottom side) are soldered to the board.
Single board design.
This eliminates the board-to-board contact problems and gives a much better heat circulation in the clock board.
- Our board is the lowest power-consumption board ever. It reduces the heat by more than 60%.
- Discrete components used where possible for easy repair.
- All ICs socketed.
- Plug compatible. Plug & Play replacement board without any modifications. Just remove the old clock PCBs and put in the new single board.
- Long-term tested in about 500 hundred pinball machines. There has never been reported any failure.
- Really available in large quantities (no vaporware).
- Each board is individually tested before shipment.
- Instruction manual and online support included.
Quality product made in germany.
Power-On LED and green Jumper for deactivation
Seperate driver logic - no more nasty "clock broken" error
Sockets for the Superfluxx-LEDs
A Superfluxx-LED mounted in a socket
Clock with warm-white Superfluxx-LEDs
Clock with blue Superfluxx-LEDs (looks very nice as well)
Clock with red Superfluxx-LEDs (i personally do not like the red ones)
Superfluxx-LEDs (left side red, right side blue)
See the better illumination
with our wide-angle Superfluxx-LEDs
Strengthend socktes for the minute-OPTOS
On the first two pictures you can see sockets on one of the prototype-boards
The third and fourth picture show, how we have reinforced the sockets by fixing them with special plastic housings. A solid and stable contruction, resistant against game vibrations.
The one, who wants to go the absolute "safe way", can solder the wire leads of the OPTOs to the sockets, but there is absolutly no need for that.
Strengthend socket in detail
Precision hardware-design for the OPTOs
8 control-indicator LEDs for the OPTOS for easy diagnostic
For disabeling just take out the resistor-network below the LEDs
"Parkposition - resistor storage" for the resistor-network, so that it will not get lost
Board is prepaired for the use with
1-chip, 2-chip, 3-chip and 4-chip Superfluxx-LEDs
The MOLEX connectors J2 and J3 are soldered to an extra-PCB
The prototype version with no speciel plastic housing for reinforcement
Detailed view from backside
The FINAL version
On this picture, you can see, how we reinforced the special "MOLEX-PCBs" for J2 and J3 with special plastic housings. A very solid and stable construction.
Some more impressions:
Here's a VIDEO with rainbow LEDs on a white clock face - VERY NICE
thanks to Rush Luangsuwan (USA)
Here's a VIDEO with the clock in action - VERY NICE
thanks to Rens Hooijmaijers (Netherlands)
Here's a VIDEO with the clock in action - VERY NICE
thanks to Kevin Drum (USA)
Following is a list with all available FLUXX-LEDs; download the list as pdf HERE.
Super Installation-Guide/Instruction from Garrett Word (Houston,USA) - many thanks Garrett, really great work!!!
If you have any questions or suggestions send me an e-mail with the following
(C) 05/2015 Ingo Kramer
PLEASE READ INSTALLATION GUIDE BEFORE YOU INSTALL THE BOARD!!!!!
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last updated 24.01.2017 22:45:04